A Paradox of Nature – The Anaconda Settling Ponds

By Marshall Hoffman

Are you ready for another adventure in Big Sky Country? Follow me then to the headwaters of Montana’s largest river, the Clark Fork. Space does not permit us to explore its three hundred mile westward journey along the I-90 corridor. Its tributaries; Rock and Flint creeks, the Blackfoot, Bitterroot and Flathead rivers swell its size as it crosses into Idaho, on its way to the Columbia.

In the interests of brevity let us focus on a site just west of Butte at the confluence of the Silver Bow and Warm Springs creeks forming the source of a mighty river. We are not visiting there for aesthetic reasons. In places the topography looks more like a rugged moonscape with mounds of mine tailings giving witness to a bygone era.

Montana has earned its title “The Treasure State” the hard way, from the massive amounts of gold, silver and copper that were hammered, dug and blasted from its hill sides. One hundred years ago copper was king in Butte, Opportunity and Anaconda.

But King Copper was a harsh taskmaster. In rain storms heavy metals from the mining residue would leach into the feeder creeks until they ran red with toxic wastes. These pollutants would eventually find their way into the upper section of the Clark Fork until not even the algae could survive. Tons of heavy metals flowed downstream one hundred miles until they settled at the base of Milltown Dam.

In 1950 the Environmental Protective Agency got involved, when arsenic was detected in the drinking water. It was then that this area became the largest reclamation project in the United States. As part of a waste treatment system, settling ponds were constructed close to Anaconda. Water flowing into a pond was treated with lime salts causing the impurities to precipitate out and settle to the bottom. As this filtered water was transferred from pond to pond it became more and more pure, until it could support aquatic life in great abundance.  A century later the Clark Fork is back, a testimony of nature’s power to heal itself and man’s sacred duty to assist in the process.

But you ask; where is the paradox? Who could have predicted that the copper capital of the world would become the trout capitol of the state? People from near and far are drawn there not for scenic beauty but to battle trophy trout in those Anaconda settling ponds. That’s true, huge trout in excess of fourteen pounds can be caught. The vegetation growing on the surface of the ponds has become a friendly environment for insect life, which nourishes the trout to surprising size. The anglers are doing their part also, by practicing a strict catch and release policy. Given half a chance nature is full of surprises. Is that not a paradox?

The Clark Fork River and the Milltown Dam-an Exciting Story of Transformation

William A. Clark, a copper mining tycoon, in 1908 built an earth filled gravity type dam at the confluence of the Clark Fork and Blackfoot Rivers near Bonner some 10 miles East of Missoula, Montana.

Its purpose was to supply hydroelectric power for his sawmills. These mills cut the giant timbers which were used to shore up the walls of mine shafts in Butte. Since 1870 the Anaconda and Butte areas had been mined as one of the richest deposits of copper sulfate in North America.

When the dam was just a few months old, however, a record flood washed millions of tons of toxic mining sediment into the Clark Fork River and downstream where it came to rest at the base of the dam. It was estimated that 6.6 million cubic yards of sediment, contaminated with arsenic, lead, zinc, copper and other heavy metals settled in the dam reservoir.

It remained there until a remediation project began June 1st 2006. As a coffer dam was constructed up stream, it allowed the water level in the reservoir of the main dam to be drawn down exposing the sediment. Daily, a 45 car train was kept busy hauling the mine extractions 90 miles up river to a small town named Opportunity and dumping it into an existing waste site. September 24th 2009 the last trainloads of toxic mater were hauled away from the Milltown site. Now, the dam is gone and the Clark Fork has been diverted into its original channel. For the first time in a hundred years the Blackfoot and the Clark Fork are free to join courses.

Much has been accomplished in the reclamation and restoration phases but much still waits in the redevelopment phase of the project. A State Park is envisioned along with boating, hunting and fishing opportunities. The long range plan calls for trails and bicycle paths connecting the surrounding communities, along with other developments.

Here’s a factoid for the avid angler: 15 trout fitted with transmitters for tracking purposes, were released to swim upstream to original spawning grounds; the first time in a century that this has happened. I can predict that in a short time, this section of the Clark Fork will become one of the premiere trout fisheries in the state of Montana.

With 150,00 abandoned mines and tens of thousands of logging road, many of us are hoping that this amazingly successful clean-up effort will provide inspiration for making environmental restoration a number one priority in our state

The Blackfoot River — An Amazing Story of Reclamation

Water Sports and fishing have returned to the Blackfoot since its recovery from pollution.  This river represents an amazing come-back story.  It’s hard to imagine that only thirty some years ago it was nearly void of life.

To illustrate: The novella written by Norman Maclean in the early part of the 20th century took place on the Blackfoot during its pristine years when it was teeming with life.  In 1992, when Robert Redford produced the movie of the same name, things had radically changed.  The river had become so toxic that most of the footage was shot on the Gallatin River near Bozeman.  Because of pollution the Blackfoot was unable to play the starring role in its own movie due to years of abuse from mining extractions.  The combination of mining, ranching, logging and subdividing the land overwhelmed the capacity of the river to heal itself.

The combined efforts to restore the Blackfoot began in the late 1980s.  By 1992 the trout were rebounding and life was returning in abundance.  That year the fly shops in Missoula served a thriving business of avid anglers.

For anyone out there in cyber space looking for an inspiring story of community cooperation and grassroots conservation, look no farther.

By Marshall Hoffman

Adventures in Big Sky Country–Fly Fishing the Famous Rivers of Montana

Montana has been blessed with many of the most famous fly fishing rivers in the United States. Because I have been fortunate enough to live in the beautiful Bitterroot Valley, where a “river runs through it,” to quote from the title of a famous movie; I thought I would begin our adventure with an article on fly fishing the Bitterroot River.

The Bitterroot springs to life at the confluence of the East and West forks just north of Conner. It flows north for 97 miles where it joins the Clark Fork near Missoula. It is not one of the largest rivers, by Montana standards, but its numerous pools and riffles, its abundant insect life, together with generous fishing accesses and scenic vistas at every bend, combine to make it a dry fly fisherman’s dream.

The Bitterroot runs parallel to Highway 93 and is framed by the Sapphire Mountains on the East and the Bitterroot range to the West. The close proximity of these ranges makes this beautiful valley a “banana belt” in western Montana.

As it follows its course through Ravalli and Missoula counties, it passes by such towns as Hamilton, Stevensville, and the Lee Metcalf National Wildlife Refuge. On these 2,900 acres 238 different species of birds have been documented, many of which migrate there to nest.

Because of frequent log jams and other impediments, the Bitterroot can be dangerous to float when the river is high due to melting snow. Be sure to check with local fly shops to find out when the river is safe enough for floating.

Another important consideration: different sections of the river have slightly different regulations concerning catch and release, limits for various kinds of fish and the use of lures or bait; so make sure you are in compliance with those local regulations which apply to that section of the river you plan to fish.

The short novel written by Norman Maclean entitled: A River Runs Through It, begins with what has become a classic sentence in angling literature: “In our family, there was no clear line between religion and fly fishing.” This was spoken by the father of the family who was an ordained Presbyterian pastor. I echo that sentiment in this article. To experience a trout stream for the first time, even if its location is common knowledge, can be an exciting discovery, which at times may feel like a spiritual renewal.

Top Tips on Reading a River

I am indebted to Malcolm Greenhalgh for many of the tips in this article.  For more bibliographical information, go to the Book Reports page of my web site

The first tip is being patient.  When you are exploring a new stretch of water, take the extra time to walk up stream and look for rising fish and the best lies.  Planning out your strategy and picking your most promising spots will save you time in the long run and increase your catch. I know you are anxious to make that first cast but, believe me, this is time well spent.

First of all, look for lies close to the bank.  Many fish like to lie close to the bank especially on the outside of bends where the current digs out a deeper channel and where overhanging branches can provide both food and shelter. Present a low profile as you approach these banks to minimize spooking the fish with sight or sound.  Some believe that approaching a stream with the sun at your back makes it more difficult to be spotted by Wily Trout.

Look for creases, distinct lines on the water’s surface, which indicate boundaries between slacker water and the main current.  Fish often like to maintain a holding pattern in slower water where they don’t have to fight the rapids, while they wait for the faster flow to deliver the goodies. Imagine trout making feeding forays into the crease and then returning with their prize to more sedate water.  Now you are on your way to beginning to think like a fish. Have you every rushed to the refrigerator, snatched a morsel and returned to the comfort of your couch?  Maybe we humans have more in common with fish than we might think.

Many rivers have weed beds broken up by patches of gravel and sand.  These can be ideal lies.  Under the swaying fronds the fish have shelter and the food bearing current funnels around the edge of weed beds.  Also, they often house massive numbers of invertebrates and smaller bait fish.

Large boulders often make great lies. Look for most fish alongside or upstream from the boulder.  Bridge pools and pools below waterfalls are often productive. The churning water at the base of a falls is rich in oxygen and the swirling water holds an abundance of food in a holding pattern.

Reading a stream is more of an art than an exact science.  So use your imagination and your instincts and you can sharpen the powers of observation by many years of practice. Think of a well witcher searching for water on a piece of property with an uncanny 6^th sense.  You too have a divining rod, now go out there and witch for that elusive trout.  When that pole begins to twitch with anticipation you will know you are close.  You’ve got to keep a sense of humor because no matter how much you think you know you still don’t know enough to out-fox a fish.  “Lord, keep me humble!”

WHAT’S WRONG WITH STILL FISHING?

NOTHING! The good news is, you don’t have to be able
to cast a fly 80 feet with pin point accuracy, nor identify every dry fly in an
expert’s tackle box, in order to have a satisfying or successful fishing
experience. As a senior who can no longer wade the rivers, I can still find the
nearest lake or fishing access and dunk a worm, while I solve the problems of
the world and clear the cobwebs from my brain. Why not bring your favorite lawn
chair lake side, sit and meditate and let the fish come to you?

Here are some tips for us who enjoy still fishing.
Try using an egg sinker with a channel through the center. Put a swivel beneath
it so it doesn’t slide down too far. Keep you bail open so a fish can take the
bait and swim with it before feeling any pressure. When you see the line moving
close the bail and set the hook.

Just below the egg sinker tie a couple of feet of
leader on the other end of the swivel. Try making a dropper by tying a
surgeon’s loop on the leader. Get about a number 4 or 6 hook with a leader and
a loop on it. Join the two loops and put a marshmallow, or cheese (avoid the
stink bait) on the top hook. On the bottom hook put on the plumpest, wiggliest,
juiciest night crawler you can find (one that will either catch a fish or die
trying). Sorry, I couldn’t resist it. If you find that too many fish are
spitting out the hook before you have a chance to set it, try pinching on a
couple of split shot and let that sit on the bottom with the bail closed. As soon
as you feel a bite set the hook. If you know at what depth you want to fish, why not put on a bobber with enough line to allow your bait to float at that depth. Then, when the bobber bobbs, you’ll know that you have a job.

As you sit there send positive vibrations down the
pole, through the line and into the lake (a little esoteric but it works for
me, sometimes).

By Marshall Hoffman

FLY FISHING WITH A NYMPH

Let’s explode the notion that fishing with artificial nymphs, which are intended to imitate different insects in various stages of development, is difficult. It’s my contention that anyone who can handle a fly rod reasonably well can catch trout on nymphs all season long and can do it when trout are refusing other artificial lures.

While the experts delve into the metamorphosis of insects and how to match the right insect in the right stage of development to the stream that is being fished; the beginner can just go out and enjoy catching trout without needing to be adept at all that science of entomology.

Still, a little science never hurts. Mayflies, caddis flies, stoneflies and others lay their eggs on the water. Some sink to the bottom and develop into the larvae or pupae of these insects, all of which are commonly referred to as “nymphs.” When they are ready to hatch into flies they rise to the surface break out of their nymphal skins and fly away as insects. Each specie emerges at different times in spring and early summer. In order to imitate their actions with artificials, we need to know something about this metamorphous. I contend, however, that we can leave much of these technical details to the expert while most of us tie on a lure, with a good old fashioned clinch knot, and go to town.

Before rising to the surface some varieties of nymphs crawl slowly along the bottom. Therefore allowing your lure to sink to the bottom, and with a slight movement given by the current or the rod, may tempt a trout to pick it up. Chances are they will mouth it very lightly making a strike difficult to detect. It takes experience to feel the nymph in the fish’s mouth and set the hook before it discovers it is not real and spits it out. The timing is critical and takes a lot of practice. Perhaps that’s why the claim is made that nymphing is the most difficult form of fly fishing.

In quiet pools an emerging nymph may rise very slowly to the surface. In the same manner, a sunken nymph can be retrieved slowly to the surface. Then you can repeat the process allowing the wet fly to drift backward and downward and then fishing it upward again. Keep doing that until you feel you have adequately covered that likely stretch of water. Since nymphs drift as well as rise, trout may take them at any time.

If the pool is deep, a sinking line may be needed, or a split shot or two or a twisted lead strip attached to the leader a foot or more above the lure. Generally speaking weighted nymphs are better than lead sinkers.

In faster current nymphs will be swept downstream. Trout often lie near eddies waiting for them to be washed into more quiet water. Therefore, look for eddies where debris may collect. Trout may be holding in the edges of current near such place so steer your lure in that direction. In faster water nymphs can be fished like wet flies. The fast drifting nymph may be struck savagely so hooking a trout may be less of a problem.

Because fishing depth is very critical to success, experiment with sinking and floating lines and leaders. Another tip, develop your casting skills so that you can land your lure, line and leader lightly, with a minimum of splashing. The idea is to make it look as natural as possible. Also mend your line frequently to keep your nymph from drag except when it hangs downstream on a taut line.

I sincerely hope that those who are new to the sport will not shy away from nymph fishing because they think they don’t know enough about it, or because they can’t distinguish between the stonefly, mayfly, or caddis fly. There is no need to be too fussy about finding the perfect pattern because great varieties are usually emerging at the same time. It could be that not having the perfect match might even help your lure to stand out from the rest and draw a curious fish to investigate.

In summary; nymph fishing can be as simple or as complicated as you want it to be, so just learn the basics and jump right in and experience how productive it can be at any time and in any place you find yourself.